Monday, January 20, 2014

How to Make a Custom Pattern

So you made the dress form, you even ran out and purchased all the stuff you need to make your apron, so now all you need is the pattern for the top right?  Great!  This will be painless, because I already went through the pain for you.

What You'll Need:

  • Your dress form (if you didn't make one get a friend to help mark the fabric on your body)
  • Pins
  • Measuring Tape
  • Cheap fabric (I got mine at Goodwill for 2 bucks a bolt, muslin will work too)
  • A marking tool - dress maker's chalk or marking pen
  • Masking Tape

First, plan out your pattern with masking tape.  This way you can get the general feel of the shape your top is going to take.  You'll also be able to make sure that you are going to cover what you want to cover. The inside will be your final size, the width of your masking tape will be your seam allowance.

You can either measure or eyeball how much fabric you need.  I just eyeball it.

Now cut a piece of fabric big enough to cover the area you are working on.

Place the fold of the fabric down the middle of your dress form.  Pin it at the top and at the bottom.

Now you need to mark your cutting lines.  I kind of fold the fabric back to see the outside edge of the masking tape.  Move the pins as needed.

Cut your pattern out.  Pin it back on the dress form.

Now is when you do the finessing of your top.  Depending on your body shape this may be just cleaning up some lines or if you are like me figuring out where your darts go.  I had to put a dart in because of that excess on the side.  The widest part of my body is my bust line.

Dart placement tip: Find the tip of your breast and mark it.  Measure out 1/2 inch (towards armpit) and mark again.  This is where your dart should end.

All top patterns are made basically the same way.  You can now make custom top pattern!
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